The Return of the Henley

Just like many of the male wardrobe's most beloved classics, the henley has its origins far beyond the fashion world. Many of the garments we now see as timeless style markers were born out of functionality – in working-class homes, within the military, or as pure sportswear. Few garments illustrate this better than the henley.

From British Rowing Culture to Grandpa's Wardrobe 

Although the henley is often associated with base layers and workwear, the garment has its clearest historical roots in British rowing culture. The sweater is believed to have evolved from British undergarments in the 19th century and got its name from the English town of Henley-on-Thames, where the rowing competition Henley Royal Regatta was held. Rowers wore the buttoned knit sweater because it was cooler than a shirt, yet more practical than a fully open neckline. 

The ribbed cotton sweater became an obvious everyday and base layer garment among the older generation during the first half of the 20th century. It was worn at home, under work shirts, or as nightwear – something safe, functional, and unpretentious. A bit like the phenomenon when talking about the grandpa shirt. 

Observation: A classic that never really disappeared 

Considering the garment's history, it is perhaps not so surprising that the henley has gained such a strong foothold in the male wardrobe. In Sweden, the garment became so obvious that it almost inherited its name from the generation that always wore it. Internationally, the henley has really never left the wardrobe – it has rather lived a quieter life than many other basics. In the latter part of the 20th century, it was also revived through American casualwear and brands like Ralph Lauren, which made the garment an essential part of the relaxed wardrobe. 

In recent years, it has started to reappear more prominently, in everything from Riviera-inspired summer styles to modern everyday wardrobes. Many would today describe the henley as having made a comeback, and there is indeed some truth to that. At the same time, we at Care of Carl have long seen the henley as something more than a trend, thanks to its history and timelessness.

Perhaps its increased popularity also says something about our contemporary society. More and more seem to be drawn to garments with clearer origins and functions – workwear, military details, and classic sportswear that were originally created for a practical purpose rather than for fashion.

At the same time, phenomena like "grandpa core," where the dressing styles of older generations have become relevant again, have contributed to garments like the henley gaining new life. In that context, the henley feels almost self-evident – one of the most uncomplicated ways to dress well. 

A relaxed yet thoughtful basic garment 

Just like many other classics, the henley today comes in a variety of expressions. It is available in long-sleeved as well as short-sleeved, in cotton as well as linen, ribbed as well as waffle-knit. Some models lean more towards workwear and vintage-inspired base layers, while others function almost as a relaxed version of the polo shirt.

How to wear the henley? 

The henley is an easy-to-wear garment. While it looks simple, it feels intentional – relaxed but with more character than an ordinary t-shirt. During the summer, it pairs naturally with linen trousers, shorts, or casual suit pants, ideally with a few buttons undone and loafers or boat shoes. In cooler months, it becomes a natural layer under overshirts, blazers, or knitwear. Here, we have styled it with a pair of brown high-waisted suit trousers, a black belt, and a pair of black boat shoes.

Regardless of how it is worn, the same feeling that has always made the henley relevant remains – something uncomplicated, timeless, and casually thoughtful.